A lot of restaurants and bakeries close on Sunday, here. We went to our old Sunday fall back Gran Café but it still had the corrugated covers rolled down over its windows. Yesterday we had checked out the Diagon Alley Delicatessen and store and considered as a future spot for an afternoon cheesecake and coffee. We chose one of their pricey Harry Potter themed eclectic breakfasts which was tasty if a bit scant on the omelette portion. A fun meal but not one this cheapskate could embrace as a regular thing.
We walked to Parque Dario then to the bus depot to check the schedule for buses to Esteli tomorrow morning. On the way home we passed the Gran Café. It was open. I looked on the window where it had a place for the restaurant scheduled hours but there were no hours or days marked. Just “horario”. Can’t be said to be late opening or early closing if you give no times.
We spent a quiet afternoon in the room, booking accommodations for the rest of our time in Nicaragua. Three nights in Esteli, back to Matagalpa for four nights then two nights in Masaya.
Monday we were up earlyish. I had some issues. Take two Imodium, go for breakfast at noisy no-name restaurant <Update - It has no sign but a name. Well, several names. It is called Comedor Dona Coco or Comedor Los Cocos or Comedor Coco depending who you ask>. We had passed it yesterday when walking to the bus depot.
Back to hotel.
Uneasy but surviving. Walk to Reuben Dario Park. Don’t risk stopping there. Turn around and walk back to hotel. Everything seems settled enough to risk travel. We leave the hotel and try to hail a cab to the Cotran Sur bus terminal. All have people. The ones with room for two more people are all going the wrong way to take a fare to the bus terminal and motion us away. Eventually we get to the one-way road headed south behind the cathedral. The same cab who brought us to the Hostal Buena Onda picks us up.
The bus to Esteli is loading. The tout tells me it is “a pies” (standing room only). We opt to wait for the next bus. We positioned ourselves near the front of the line but people pushed around at the last moment and swarmed the bus. It took a moment to realize assertiveness was required and I used my superior height to grab a handrail and traction my way through the narrow bus door. Roller derby gear and tactics advised.
Too late.
Every seat was taken on the bus in the first thirty seconds. Most of the seats had a single person who claimed the second half of the seat was for their travelling companion. Juanita got on after me and just motioned a woman over and the woman gave way. Juanita put her bag in the overhead rack. I put my bag in the rack next to hers. I guess I’m going to be standing for the next couple of hours. The conductor tried to move us standees all further back in the bus. I refused saying I wanted to stay close to my wife. After that a young man decided he wasn’t going to get an attractive young woman as a seat mate and let me sit on the other half of his seat, a couple of rows back from Juanita. I could get glimpses of our bags in the overhead bin.
The trip wasn’t terribly uncomfortable. My bowels had mostly settled. I handed out a few curved illusion tracts.
A few people got off on the way and at Sebaco. A lot got off at San Isidro. Somebody shuffled with me and Juanita and I got to sit together for the last half hour or so of the trip. I felt run over. When the bus arrived in Esteli we waited until last to get our bags from the overhead bin. I shuffled through the bus depot feeling like I had gone a few rounds in the boxing ring. Achy and tired.
The cab eventually found our hotel and we checked in. Clean but cramped quarters. They’ll do for $17 a night. We walked around the corner to where the supermarket used to be. A mercantile business now. I shuffled in the lead up the main avenue until we came to a gas station with a convenience store. I grabbed a cacao fresca from the cooler and went to pay for it. I gave a large bill to Juanita, “Get what you want and pay for it.” I went and sat at a table. She showed up with a drink and a large bottle of water for the room. I asked her to buy a ginger ale as well.
A couple of times a year I will have a queasy stomach and a chocolate milk, a muscle milk or a chocolate shake will settle things down. I washed an ibuprofen down and sipped about half the bottle of cacao fresca before a mad dash to the men’s room. Fortunately, it wasn’t occupied. If it had been, the ladies’ room would have been the second choice with no hesitation. After my body was done rejecting the sugary chocolate drink I shuffled back to the hotel, had a sip of ginger ale, laid down and went to sleep. On the way I stopped to buy a dozen bananas and asked Juanita to pay for them and add to the other stuff she was carrying. It wasn’t hard for her to catch up with me, I was moving so slowly.
When I woke from my dozing, I drank the rest of the ginger ale and went back to dozing fitfully.
I was repulsed by the bad taste in mouth but didn’t have the energy to unpack my bag and find my toothbrush. One time when Juanita happened to be awake too, I asked for a stick of gum. Bad call. My body rejected that idea even quicker than it had the chocolate drink. Instant commode hug time.
Things improved slowly after that.
Tuesday morning, Juanita ventured out and bought some bland pastries. Around noon we walked up to the main park. On the way we checked out a few buffets and restaurants. Nothing appealed to either of us. Finally, we settled on a fruit smoothie each. On the way back to the room we stopped at the Pali and bought a jug of water and some Laky soup cups.
Also on the way back we noticed the large corner grocery store that had set up trade in place of the closed supermarket. We bought some ham and cheese pastries for later. A quiet evening was had by all. Wednesday came around and my general feeling of well being followed suit.
We walked to a more luxury hotel and had an omelette and coffee at luxury prices. We have dined here before and hope to again, just not every day. After breakfast we walked to the bus depot. I checked out the price of a cab back to Matagalpa. Quoted $US 50 or $Cd 2,000. I’m sure I could get it down to $US 40 but it’s still way more than the less than $Cd 90 / $US 3 bus fare for the two of us for the same trip.
We watched a couple of buses load for Matagalpa. There is less of a Bay Days feel to the event midweek in Esteli than Monday morning in Matagalpa. We’ll risk the bus tomorrow. Needs must we’ll don elbow pads and shove like the locals. They may be wiry but I’m heavier and taller. How Christian is that?
We walked back to the hotel for some keyboarding until it was time for lunch. We don’t leave lunch too late and only eat in busy restaurants. Usually keeps us upright and not hunched over where we don’t want to be. Today the uptown buffet was more appealing to both of us. Ordered too much and gave away the extra on our way home.
We stayed in. I had logged enough steps.
I stayed up too late reading a couple of short mysteries in a series. Dawn arrived on time Thursday despite my bad judgement. We got up and started walking to the luxury hotel. We passed a busy hole in the wall restaurant and ordered scrambled eggs. We had just as a good a breakfast for a third the cost even with two coffees each. Also had a good conversation with the patrons and owner.
Back at the hotel we packed, keyboarded a bit before grabbing a cab to the bus terminal.
The bus had just started loading when we got there. We had our choice of seats with no jostling or shoving. There were people standing only a few times during the trip and the trip went quicker, as well. We arrived early for check-in but our room was ready. In arrival tradition we went around the corner and down the alley to La Vida e Bella for pizza. Later we walked to Parque Dario and back through town to the Pali for some jugs of water and Laky soup cups. Later we walked toward the center of town and bought some bananas and mandarin oranges.
Friday we discovered the upstairs at the busy no-name restaurant down the street and lucked out to get the table on the balcony. Great view the Mirador overlooking the city and of the cathedral. Another tasty, economical breakfast with coffee for around five bucks for two.
After breakfast we walked toward Parque Dario. While I was handing out curved illusion tracts to craftsmen in a series of workshops on a back street Juanita suggested one of them might be able to fix her watch strap. He said he could and to be back in twenty minutes. Coffee in the park and a return about thirty minutes later. He hadn’t started. It will be ready in thirty minutes. We did some shopping and walking and handing out more tracts before picking up a perfect repair job at the half hour mark. Then back to the room for a while for more reading.
Lunch was lengua en salsa at the no name restaurant. Best I’ve had anywhere. We washed it down with some perfectly sweetened lemonade. That was enough eating for one day. Back at the hotel I got a bit of writing in but more reading plus the daily Wordle.
The traditional weekend breakfast meal in Nicaragua are nacatamales. We’ve had a few over the years. Some were excellent. Some were excellent. Some you wish you could forget. Today’s at the no name restaurant were the best or second best we have had. Ever.
Due to keyboarding and some internet connection delays breakfast was closer to brunch timing and the nacatamales were huge. We skipped lunch and had a mid afternoon cake and coffee at Belen. Supper was a cup of Laky ramen noodle soup.
After breakfast we dropped by the barbershop for a $3 trim beard trim and haircut. We bought a couple of gifts for the grandkids and sat in the park drinking coffee before coming back to the hotel. I exchanged some dollars for Cordobas for perhaps the last time this trip. The hotel next week will be in dollars and the cab ride booked to the airport likewise. If we make it to El Paradiso one more time they prefer dollars as well.
If you are reading this it means Saturday night keyboarding brought the week to a conclusion. Hope to see you next week.