We are downstairs at 7 to tell the owner I feel healthy enough to go to Selva Negra for the day and could she please order the cab for nine. The owner is not in. She will be in later the maid/cook/laundress informs us. I explain (poorly) that I wanted to tell the owner. She nods. We order a pancake breakfast. And wait. While we are waiting I share some curved illusion tracts with a couple of backpackers from France. With my poor French and their pretty good Spanish we manage to visit while they eat their pancakes and later as they head out to Granada while we eat our pancakes.
We go back upstairs and do laundry, shower and tidying while we get ready for the day. Back downstairs at 8:50. We finally figure out the maid etc. had thought we had already ordered the taxi. She phones the owner. The taxi arrives a little after nine. We ride the half hour up the hills to Selva Negra visiting with the driver. He turns off the highway at the old army tank. We ride the kilometer gravel road to the coffee plantation. At the gate, Juanita and I pay the two hundred Cordobas each entry fee. A hundred and fifty of that can be applied to any food bill.
The driver is off shift in the afternoon. He gives a WhatsApp number to text half an hour before we are ready to be picked up. It will be the same cab but a different driver.
Maid talked to owner on phone.
Today is windy and a bit chilly for sitting outside. Normally we would sit by a table outside by the lake. Today we opt for an inside table behind the big windows. We order coffee. Fernando, our waiter, presents the menu. We are not particularly hungry. The pancake breakfast was more substantial than expected. We look at the menu anyway. There is an item involving smoked salmon, bagel and more that interests me for lunch. File that thought. Juanita doesn’t see what she had another time and was hoping to order. I ask about that item. Fernando brings a different menu. There it is. Yay! Everybody will be happy.
We tell him we are not hungry now. He suggests some pieces sliced from a baguette. That sounds like something we can handle. He brings them lightly toasted with marmalade and butter on the side. We munch away and work on our carafe of coffee and books. I hand out some curved illusion tracts. We visit with an Austrian couple. They are going on the coffee plantation tour after their breakfast.
When we are ready for a before lunch hike I ask Fernando about the bill. He said he’d run a tab. That’s nice. When we picked up the hiking trail map at reception I asked if ran a tab or paid after every meal. She said to pay every time. Fernando is more accommodating and friendly. We’ve had a good visit with him. He is very interested in us. Receptionists don’t get or earn tips.
We do a shortish easy (green on the map) hike around the lake in the sunshine. We walk to the chapel. Sometimes when we have been here the chapel was decorated for a wedding. Not many weddings on Tuesdays. There are fresh looking rose petals on the floor so maybe last weekend.
I ask for the menus. The menu with what I wanted was the breakfast menu. No longer available. Juanita orders her burrito of choice. I adapt and overcome. I order a Selva Negra BBQ burger with fries. The fries are few but properly cooked. They probably come form some factory in the States. The burger is glorious. Thick. Juicy. With a slab of Selva Negra made gouda cheese, their homegrown bacon and their in-house coffee BBQ sauce. A dozen or so napkins later I have it surrounded and digesting.
We sip our water and Jamaica juice and read. Fernando says he goes off shift at two. We settle up. One thing that differs between high end restaurants like this and more humble places like cafes is the pricing. Sure, the posted price is more, but the difference is more than expected for the uninitiated.
If you go to a place next to the bus terminal and the white board says C$150 (one hundred and fifty Cordobas) for a meal you pay C$150 when you get your food. At a fancier place the menu might say C$350. You order. You eat. You get the bill. It will be noticeably more. To the C$350 they have added IVA (value added tax) and “voluntary” service fee (tip). Inertia being what it is most pay the “voluntary”. I watched one tourist get angry over this. It is what it is.
We pay our bill including a bit of a cash bonus tip to Fernando. He worked hard. He may not like us but as far as we can tell we are his favorite people in the world.
The Austrian couple is back from coffee tour. We visit a bit more. They enjoyed the tour.
There is a newish crowd. I hand our more tracts. We visit a bit with a Canadian couple then go on a longer hike, We start with green trails and go across the middle of the mountain on blue trails. The Austrian couple pass us and head up the mountain to the red trails we have been warned against. As we pass when a red trail coming down joins our blue trail I expect to encounter the Austrian couple coming down yodelling. Do Austrians yodel? They have Alps, don’t they? We do meet a young Nicaraguan couple coming the other way. He looks bushed. She looks exhausted. They explain they went to the top of the ridge and the trail across was just solid trees. They have a picture of the trail map on his phone. I show them on our paper map where we all are. If they keep going in the direction they are going it is about five times as far to get back to civilization than if they turn around, go back and take the next blue trail downhill to the chapel. They turn around. We follow as they slog forward. When they discover the junction I described they yell “Thanks” and speed away downhill. When we see them later back at the restaurant they seem to have recovered.
Back at the restaurant we stand by the cake display admiring the cakes. A new waiter appears. I point out the chocolate peanut butter layer cake we want and ask him to bring us a piece and two forks. We go to a table. He brings a piece, two spoons. I guess they eat cake with spoons here. Then he brings us two waters and interrogates us if we had paid our lunch bill. I show him the paperwork. He goes away. He brings us the bill for the cake. No extra tip for him.
When the cake is done, we settle in sipping our water and reading until time to text the cab. He says he’ll be there in half an hour. Ten minutes before he is due, we go outside to wait. Same car, different driver arrives. The highway to Matagalpa seems steeper going down than up. Glad the cab has good brakes.
Back at the hotel we settle in for the night. We don’t need more food or activity.